The beginning there
was nothing, all was emptiness; there was only space. Before there
were the heavens, there was no earth, and when there was no earth,
there was no sky.. Through meditation, the world serpent Antaboga
created the turtle Bedawang, on whom lie coiled two snakes as the
foundation of the World. On the world turtle rests a lid, the Black
Stone. There is no sun, there is no moon, there is no night in the
cave below (the underside of the stone); this is the underworld,
whose gods are the male Batara Kala and the female Setesuyara. There
lives also the great serpent Basuki.
Kala created the light and Mother
Earth, over which extends a layer of water. Over this again are
consecutive domes or skies, high and low; one of mud (which dried
to become the earth and the mountains); then the 'empty' middle
sky (the atmosphere), where Iswara dwells; above this is the floating
sky, the clouds, where Semara sits, the god of love. Beyond that
follows the 'dark' (blue) sky with the sun and the moon, the home
of Surya; this is why they are above the clouds. Next is the Perfumed
Sky beautiful and full of rare flowers where live the bird Tiak,
whose face is like a human face, the serpent Taksaka, who has legs
and wings, and the awan snakes, the falling stars. Still higher
in the sky gringsing wayang, the' flaming heaven of the ancestors!
And over all the skies live the great gods who keep watch over the
heavenly nymphs." Thus we have it that the island rests on
the turtle, which floats on the ocean.
As the last Asiatic outpost to
the east, Bali is interesting to the naturalist as an illustration
of the theory of evolution. In 1869 Alfred Russell Wallace discovered
that the fauna and flora typical of Asia end in Bali, while the
earlier, more primitive biologics. Cal forms found in Australia
begin to appear in the neighboring island of Lombok, just east of
Bali. Here the last tigers, cows,
This is from the Catur Yoga, a
popular manuscript which translated for the sake of practice on
the language. It consists of ideas on cosmogony, mythology, legends
of the creation of man, etc., ending in a confused set of rules
for cremation and Balinese genealogies.
(Banteng), Monkeys, woodpeckers,
pythons, etc., of Asia are not to be found farther east, and the
cockatoos, parrots, and giant lizards predominate. Bali has the
luxuriant vegetation of tropical Asia, while Lombok is and and thorny,
like Australia. Wallace drew a line across the narrow straits between
Bali and Lombok, the deepest waters in the archipelago, to divide
Asia from Oceania.' Today, however, scientists are more inclined
to regard the islands as a transitional region.
As in all countries near the Equator,
Bali has an eternal summer with even, warm weather, high humidity,
and a regular variation of winds, but the unbearable heat of lands
similarly situated is greatly relieved by sea breezes that blow
constantly over the descending slopes of the four volcanoes that
form the island. The seasons are not distinguished as hot and cold,
but as wet and dry. It is pleasantly cool and dry during our summer
months, when the southeasterly winds blow, but in November the north-west
monsoon ushers in six months of a rainy season so violent that it
makes everything rot away, growing green whiskers of mould on shoes
that are not shined every day. Then the atmosphere becomes hot and
sticky and the torrential rains that lash the island cause landslides
that often carry enormous trees into the deep ravines cut into the
soft volcanic ash by the rivers, themselves red with earth washed
from the mountain. Brooks and rivers swell into huge torrents (banjir)
that rise unexpectedly with a deafening roar, in front of one's
eyes, carrying away earth, plants, and occasional drowned pigs,
destroying bridges and irrigation works. It is not unusual for a
careless bather to be surprised by a sudden banjir and to be carried
away in the muddy stream.
|
|
It is only natural
that in a land of steep mountains, with such abundant rains, crossed
in all directions by streams and great rivers, on a soil impregnated
with volcanic ash, the earth should attain great richness and fertility.
The burning tropical sun shining on the saturated earth produces
a steaming, electric, hot. house atmosphere that gives birth to
the dripping jungles that cover the slopes of the. Volcanoes with
prehistoric tree-ferns, pandanus, and palms, strangled in a mesh
of creepers of all sorts, their trunks smothered with orchids and
alive with leeches, fantastic butterflies, birds, and screeching
wild monkeys. This exuberance extends to the cultivated parts of
the island, where-the rice fields that cover this over-populated
land produce every year, and without great effort, two crops of
the finest rice in the Indies.
Despite the enormous population,
the lack of running water has kept the western part of the island
uninhabited and wild. The few remaining tigers, and the deer, wild
bog, crocodiles, great lizards, jungle cocks, etc., are the sole
dwellers in this and hilly country covered with a dusty, low brush.
Curiously enough, the Balinese regard this deserted land (Pulaki)
as their place of origin. They explain in an old legend that a great
city, which still exists, once flourished there, but has been made
invisible to human eyes by Wahu Rahu, the greatest Brahmana from
Java, who was forced to flee from the capital, Gelgel, to save his
beautiful daughter from the king (by caste his inferior) and who
found refuge in Pulaki by making the city invisible to the wicked
king and his followers.
Another and region in contrast
with the extravagant fertility of the island is the peninsula of
limestone called Tafelhoek (Bukit to the Balinese) which rises to
a height of 700 feet above the sea. This curious tableland, which
shows every indication of having once been at the bottom of the
ocean, is joined to the mainland by 2 low, narrow isthmus, but its
sides rise almost vertically from the sea, and on the extremity
of a long narrow rock, with a straight drop Of 250 feet, is the
fantastically situated temple of Uluwatu, one of the holiest in
Bali. This projecting rock is believed to be the ship, turned to
stone, of Dewi Danu, the goddess of waters.
The mountains with their likes
and rivers are the home of the gods and the sources of the land's
fertility, and they stand for everything that is holy and healthy.
To the Balinese everything that is high is good and powerful, so
it is natural that the sea, lower than the lowest point of land,
with the sharks and barracuda that infest the waters, and the deadly
sea-snakes and poisonous fish that live among the treacherous coral
reefs, should be considered as tenget, magically dangerous, the
home of the evil spirits. Few Balinese know how to swim and they
rarely venture into the sea except to bathe near the shallow beaches,
and then they go only a few feet from the shore. There are small
settlements of fishermen who brave the malarial coasts of Kuta,
Sanur, Benua, and Ketewel, but in general fishing is done on a small
scale, either with casting-nets, or in beautiful prows shaped like
fantastic
Elephant-fish " (gajah-mina)
with elegant stylized trunks, and eyes to see at night. With their
triangular sails apex downward, they go far out to sea at sunset
to procure the giant sea-turtles required at the frequent banquets
of this feast-loving people. Most Balinese seldom eat fish and remain
essentially a rice-eating race. Their repugnance for the sea may
be due to the same religious fear of the supernatural that prevents
them from climbing to the summit of the great mountains. The Balinese
feel that the heights are for the gods, the middle world for humans,
and the depths and low points for the spirits of the underworld.
They dread the unholy loneliness of the beaches haunted by demons
and they believe that the coastline is under the influence of Jero
Gede Mecaling, the Fanged Giant, who lives on the barren island
of Nusa Penida. They are one of the rare island peoples in the world
who turn their eyes not outward to the waters, but upward to the
mountain tops. |