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Sanur is where Bali's first
luxury beach hotel was built over 30 years ago, and has since
been the spot for luxurious seaside accommodation. Conveniently
located near Denpasar on the main road leading to the east,
Sanur is not nearly as frenetic as Kuta, nor as well-mannered
as Nusa Dua. Many foreigners have built lavish villas and
bungalows here and this is the preferred place for up-market,
long-term stays on the island, especially in the BatuJimbar
and Belanjong areas.
The main attraction here is
the white sand beach bordering a reef-sheltered lagoon. The
beach stretches south from the The Grand Bali Beach Hotel
and ends up in the mangrove marshes opposite Serangan Island.
Due to the protection of the lagoon, this beach is one of
the safest on the island, and thus perfect for families. There
is no surf apart from out on the reef, and one cannot swim
at low tide, but at other times this is the best place in
Bali for windsurfing and sailing.
Prices in US dollars. AC =
Air conditioning. Telephone code is 0361.
Sanur can be divided into several sub-areas:
.
West and south of the hotel, at the point where the black
and the white sand beaches meet. This northern section of
Sanur is popular with local crowds.
of JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai, and south of JI. Segara Ayu, extending
south to the first stretch of JI. Danau Tamblingan. This area
is classier, with good hotels on the beach, night and art
markets, and good restaurants.
,
further south, has few hotels, but is the location of expatriate
and Indonesian jet set society mansions. Exclusive beaches
are reached via small lanes.
Semawang stretches south from the Bali Hyatt Hotel to the
Sanur Beach Hotel and beyond. It houses both the priciest
hotels and restaurants, as well as the red light district.
Get to Sanur from the airport
by taxi. Tickets available at the airport taxi co-op counter
outside customs, near "left luggage". The set fare
is Rp. 35,000 to Sanur.
Within Sanur either rent a car
or catch one of the many public bemos that ply JI. Danau Tamblingan
for Rp1,000. These can be chartered for short hops around
Sanur ($l-$2), and for trips to Denpasar or Kuta ($2-$4).
Bargain hard. The terminal of the Praja Taxi company is in
Sanur, Phone 289191, 289090. Bali Taxi is in Jimbaran, Phone
701111, 701621, 701633. Pan Wirthi Taxi is in Kuta, Phone
723355, 723388, 723952.
Biking around Sanur is also
fun. At the Tri Dewi Art shop, JI. Danau Tamblingan 48, in
Semawang, you can rent a bike for Rp15,000/ day; try bargaining.
The bicycles aren't the greatest. It may be wise to pay more
by renting through your hotel.
Sanur is an ideal base for trips
to Bali's rice growing heartland and the mountain areas. Rent
a self-drive car or a minibus with driver on a daily basis.
There are car rental companies on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai and
on JI. Danau Tamblingan. Cars and minibuses for hire are found
outside all major hotels, or go through one of many car rental
companies.
The most reputable self-drive
rental agencies are Avis, which has desks at Jimbaran, in
the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and the Sheraton Lagoon Nusa Dua;
Bali Car Rental on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai; and Toyota Rent
a Car at the airport, Jimbaran, on JI. Raya Airport 99X, in
the Bali Padma Hotel in Legian, and Kartika Plaza Hotel in
Tuban.
A day-trip in a minibus with
a multilingual guide costs around $25, including gas, depending
on the itinerary. Group tours cost as little as $10-$15 for
the main tourist destinations. Contact Pacto, Tunas Indonesia,
Mekar Wisata, or your hotel travel agent.
Private Houses. An alternative
to standard accommodations is to rent luxury bungalows owned
by affluent foreigners. These can work out relatively reasonably,
if food and drink are bought at supermarket prices. Prices
range from $250/day for a villa for two, to $1,500/day for
a two-hectare beachfront estate with 14 staff, an archery
range and use of a game fishing boat
The Bali Hyatt, The Grand Bali
Beach and Sanur Beach hotels have a wide variety of restaurants,
buffets, and coffee shops. The food is mostly European, but
they also offer Indonesian, Chinese and Japanese cuisine.
Restaurants outside the hotels
offer a greater variety of food in a broad price range. Most
close at 10 pm.
The cheapest and most colorful
food spat at night is the Sanur Night Market, located in the
Art Market. The food is spicy, but nothing is cheaper; you
can get a nasi campur for Rp3,000-Rp3,500.
For cheap, but better quality
local food-the kind of place where your guides prefer to eat
go to the street restaurants in Sindhu, on Jl. Bypass Ngurah
Rai between JI. Segara Ayu and JI. Sindhu. Try Haji Imran's
(sate), Cak Muk or Depot Robby's (Chinese).
Warung Jawa Barat, on the corner
of JI. Mertasari and JI. Kesumasari in Semawang, has a range
of Sundanese food from Western Java, such as grilled fish,
karedok (mixed raw vegetables in coconut sauce) or sate. Prices
are good: between $1-$1.50.
For late-night eaters, Sanur
has several moderately priced Padang restaurants open all
night. 15-20 spicy dishes are laid out for you to choose from:
you pay only for what you eat, so keep track. Cinto Bundo
is in Batujimbar, where as Sari Bundo and Murah Meriah are
in Semawang, in the midst of the red-light area.
There are two village cooperative
restaurants in Sanur. Geared to tourists' palates, they have
the advantage of being located right on the beach, a privilege
denied to their competitors. Sanur Beach Market, at the end
of Jl. Segara Ayu, is outdoors. Specialties include sate,
nasi goreng, fresh grilled fish, grilled lobster; all reasonably
priced. Profits from here and the nearby market go to the
Sanur village foundation to run schools, clinics and art classes.
Banjar Restaurant is at the
end of JI. Duyung in Semawang and offers the same range of
Indonesian and Chinese food. The association also rents boats
for sailing trips on the lagoon.
Sanur's "in" place
to eat is the Cafe Batujimbar in Batujimbar. Its hanging vines
and sturdy furniture gives it the look of a Riviera roadside
cafe. This is the haunt of the local expert colony, many of
whom live in the sumptuous Batujimbar Estates just across
the road. The cafe offers light, healthy food with daily specials
at reasonable prices. Coffee is a specialty.
Koki, on JI. Bypass, is favored
by local foreign residents. A pub atmosphere and generous
servings of European-style food and billiards, make this a
versatile stop.
Another simple, yet cozy place, is the Agung Restaurant just
before the Semawang crossroad. For all palates, including
Australian, European as well as Japanese, at under $5. A similar
place, with music, is the popular J.J. on JI. Tamblingan.
Those looking for American food should try the Borneo, conveniently
located among the trees of A. Sindhu. Open until 11.30 pm.
For an Irish flavor go to Tamarind restaurant and bar JI.
Merta Sari (next to the British Consul) and try their sausage
and mash, cottage pie and other classics from the emerald
isle
Luxury Restaurant in Sanur
Some of the best places for those who want to dine in luxury
are found in hotels such as La Tavema (good seafood, brick-oven
pizza) and Tandjung Sari. The latter is famous for its Indonesian
rijsttafel and its Balinese palace atmosphere. Dine to the
strains of a bamboo tingklik orchestra while looking out over
the sea, or have a drink in the seaside bar. A romantic spot
for dinner by moonlight.
A few stylish places can also
be found on Jl. Danau Tamblingan, including Istana Garden
in Sindhu, Bayu Garden in Batujimbar and Lotus Pond ( free
transportation in Sanur area), in Sindhu, which floats on
a pond of lotus flowers, is decorated with antiques and serves
great fresh pasta. A Royal Indonesian Buffet (Rjstafel) is
available every night. If you want a pleasant Balinese ambiance,
try Gazebo's Kuri Puti, on JI. Danau Tamblingan 35, or Kul
Kul, further down the road in Batujimbar. All offer similar
fare and prices-menus generally feature grilled seafood. Many
also stage dance performances and offer pick-up services.
Telaga Naga ("Dragon Well"),
opposite of and operated by the Bali Hyatt, has the best Chinese
food on Bali in the most exclusive setting: a lotus garden.
Great Szechuan food. Try their chicken with dried chili peppers
or the roast duck. Lenny's on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai was the
first Chinese restaurant in Sanur. It features good Indonesian/Cantonese
style dishes (very fresh vegetables) at reasonable prices.
Sin Bo Lan, or SBL, is a favorite of the local Chinese. Tasty
spring rolls. Janur Garden, JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai, marvelous
squid and shrimps. Wayang Bali, also on the bypass, offers
an international menu of sizzling steaks, delicious pasta,
healthy salads and sandwiches in AC comfort. Live music on
Friday and Saturday nights.
Trattoria Da Marco's, in Semawang,
claims to serve "the best Italian food on Bali."
Their grilled fish, spaghetti carbonara, bean salad and delicious
steaks prove it. Ball Moon makes marvelous lasagna.
These restaurants cater mostly
to the increasing number of Japanese tourists. Kite on J1.
Danau Tamblingan offers sukiyaki, yakitori and tempura. Ryoshl
on JI. Danau Tamblingan 150, is an island-wide favorite for
dependable fresh sushi and typical Japanese fare. Chong Gi-Wa
features all the standard Korean favorites including kimchee
and bulgogi barbequed beef in sweet soya.
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A quiet family resort, Sanur
is not known for its nightlife, but there are two discos.
The Banjar on JI. Duyung, near the beach next to the Bali
Hyatt, opens until 2 am, with reggae music on Saturdays. Janger
Bar and Disco opens from 8 pm-5 am, I think Janger is now
close, but you should check this out.
Kafe Wayang has an innovative
Asian menu and a lively jam session on Friday and Saturday
nights. Right next door, Jazz Bar and Grill promotes live
jazz music every night and features a huge bar, pool table,
and a Cal/Mex menu. Both are on the intersection of JI. By-Pass
and JI. Hang Tuah and are open to 2 am.
The Bali International Sports
Bar, next to Borneo on JI. Sindhu, is a popular spot for expats
with its western menu and live satellite sport broadcasts
on the big screen.
Sanur is just a short taxi ride
away from Denpasar and Batubulan, where barong, keris, fire,
and kecak dance performances are held regularly. Contact a
travel agent. Most hotels offer Balinese buffet dinners with
dance performance for about $15 a head. A number of restaurants
offer similar shows at lower prices.
Tourist shops line all the main
streets of Sanur. Although there is more choice in Kuta and
Legian, prices are similar if you bargain well. Otherwise,
go to the arcades in the main hotels for high quality goods
and no bargaining
Books. The main hotels and photo
centers on JI. Danau Tamblingan have P range of guides to
Bali and Indonesia in English and other languages. Also try
Kita Bookshop at Café, Batujimbar, and Klik Klak Studio,
next door, for coffee table books on Indonesia and postcards.
Clothing and Batik. Kartika
Chandra Batik Center and Serasa Batik Collection on JI. Bypass
Ngurah Rai, Tohpati, west of Sanur, sell a complete range
of high quality but expensive batiks. For fancy clothing,
Nogo Ikat Center has two shops along JI. Danau Tamblingan
at no. 98 and no. 208, selling elegant, hand-woven ikat designs.
Shoes, handbags and accessories from natural textiles are
available at Miranda Inti Alami, JI. Hang Tuah 43, across
from the entrance to The Grand Bali Beach Hotel.
White embroidered dresses are
available at Bali High, JI. Danau Tamblingan at the JI. Karangsari
intersection, Uluwatu JI. Danau Tamblingan, and Mama &
Leon, JI. Danau Tamblingan 99A. Raffiesia, on JI. Danau Toba
sells leather clothing. Imba Leather City sells fashion bags,
shoes, and garments, and makes to order at JI. Danau Tamblingan
8, near JI. Danau Toba. For high fashion, try the major hotel
arcades.
Food. Gelael Dewata Supermarket
on JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai is the place for imported cheeses
and meats, as well as general toiletry items. Alas Arum, JI.
Danau Tamblingan, has a wide selection of imported goods and
sometimes has wine and spirits. Many other general stores
in Sanur such as Bagus Store and ABC Store offer cold beer
and soft drinks at a fraction of hotel prices.
Home Furnishings. For decorative
objects go to Bali Curious Goods on JI. Danau Tamblingan 94,
next to Bayu Garden Restaurant. For creative ceramics, try
Café Batujimbar's ceramic shop on JI. Danau Tamblingan
or visit the factory outlet across the street in Batujimbar
Estate. Pejaten at Griya Market has decorative plates, cups,
etc.
Jewelry. Suarti Designer Collection,
JI. Danau Tamblingan 69, is well-known for export quality
silver jewelry.
Paintings. For good genuine
contemporary painting, go to Wianta's, JI. Pandu, 300 meters
from the Renon junction, on the road to Denpasar. Souvenirs.
The Sanur Beach Market has a good range of inexpensive gift
items. JI. Danau Tamblingan has dozens of shops selling local
handicrafts: textiles, carvings, paintings, leather, and silver
goods. Eden has rattan-leather items such as purses and pencil
cases.
Serangan Island was labeled
for some major development projects until the political and
economic turmoil of recent years put everything on hold. Unfortunately
this was a little too late for the island which had been completely
cleared and leveled in preparation for the proposed development.
Although the village and turtle farm still exist, the rest
of the island is nothing but a flattened wasteland. There
is only one advantage to all this-there is now road access,
via a man-made causeway, off the Sanur By-Pass (opposite Macro
Supermarket) to the former island and the famous surf breaks
just offshore. Email me at Lisa@baliforyou.com if youre interested
in visiting this island
Sanur Activities -
water sports
check out our Holiday - Activities Page
You can find almost every watersport
imaginable here. Most of the facilities are found right on
the beach in front of the big hotels such as The Grand Bali
Beach, Segara Village and the Bali Hyatt. The excellent Blue
Oasis Beach Club at Sanur Beach Hotel rents Hobiecats, Lazers
and windsurfing boards. Courses for those wishing to learn
windsurfing are also available.
Sanur offers diving and snorkeling,
although not the best in Bali. There are several agents that
organize trips. In Sanur, Bali Marine Sports on Jl. Bypass
Ngurah Rai. Baruna Sport has beach booths in front of The
Grand Bali Beach and the Bali Hyatt. Surya Water Sports is
at JI. Karang Sari 1, offering diving, parasailing, banana
boat, glass bottom boat, jet ski, Turtle Island, and dolphin
tours. The beach counter is on JI. Duyung.
The only operator specializing
in tours to Komodo Island is based in Sanur and has a fully
equipped dive boat running charters on request for a minimum
of five passengers. They also organize several one day and
charter excursions east of Bali, diving packages and charters.
Grand Komodo Tours, JI. Hang Tuah 26, Sanur.
Besides the charter services offered by various tour agents,
Spice Island Cruises, JI. Padang Galak 25, Sanur, offers 3and
4-day luxury cruises aboard the 140-passenger Bali Sea Dancer
and the 120-passenger Oceanic Odyssey. Departs every Mon and
Fri, includes stops on Sumbawa, Komodo (and Lombok with the
4-day trip). Rates, including cabin, food and Komodo tour,
start at about $500 per person.
To appreciate the beach from
a more Balinese perspective witness the daily ceremonies that
take place along the shore: cremations, reduction and presentation
of offerings, ritual bathing, among others. Inquire at the
beaches and dress appropriately (no swimwear) to attend.
Banks. Bank Dagang Negara at
Bali Hyatt (Phone 281234). BDB at intersection of J1. Bypass
Ngurah Rai and JI. Sindhu. Bank Desa Sanur, JI. Danau Buyan
(Phone 288246), JI. Sudamala (Phone 288402) in front of the
Grand Bali Beach.
Money Changers. PT Dewi Segara
at Gelael Supermarket, J1. Bypass Ngurah Rai at Turismo Indonesia,
JI. Danau Tamblingan 85, across from Café Batujimbar.
Post Offtes. Most hotels provide
postal services. Post office at JI. Danau Buyan, open daily
8 am-2 pm. Closed Sun. There are small post offices next to
Sanur Beach Hotel and Café Batujimbar. Go to Denpasar's
main post office in Renon for full services.
Telecommunications (wartel).
Citra Agung, JI. Danau Tamblingan (Phone/fax: 288864/5) and
Anggar Ari Agung, JI. Danau Tamblingan 174 (Phone 288020,
fax: 285035).
Massage. After a long journey around Bali, have a Japanese
shiatsu massage at LG Club Sehatku. Sauna, steam, whirlpool,
Indonesian herbal lulur baths are also available.
Medical Treatment. If there
is no medical service in your hotel, see Dr Anak Agung Made
Djelantik at JI. Hayam Wuruk 190, near the Renon crossroads.
For a dentist, see Dr. Retno Agung at JI. Bypass Ngurah Rai
close to the intersection with JI. Danau Buyan
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