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Regency
The Regency of Karangasem has
an impressive range of terrain and covers about 2,000 square
kilometers. The steep rise from the coast up to the mountains
creates magical scenary. Dominiting the regency is the Volcano
Agung , said to be the "Home " of the Balinese gods.In
1963 , the Volcano last eruption killed more than a thousand
people and many people lost their land and become homeless.
However , it also has given special value where hundreds of
lorries and trucks thunder every day to transport sand stone
for building materials.
BESAKIH TEMPLE
Bali's "mother temple" the largest temple in Bali,
is over 900 meters up to he slopes of Gunung Agung. It has
been regarded as holy place since pre historic times in Bali.
The first recorded mention of its existence is from an inscription
from the fifteenth century; it has been regarded as a central,
holy temple for the entire island .All the allegiances of
the Balinese people come together at Besakih.
Each Regency has its own temple within the overall compound,
as do each of the caste groups.
TENGANAN
Protected for centuries from the outside world by its surrounding
walls, the village of Tenganan has maintained its ancient
pre- Hindu customs through a strong code of non - fraternization
with outsiders. Tenganan is famous for its 'double ikat '
woven material called gringsing, which is supposed to protect
the wearer with magic powers.
AMED & TULAMBEN
Approximately 1.5 hour from Badung north of Padang Bai.There
is most popular diving site or snorkeling in Bali. A shipwreck
and a drop-off accessible from the beach offer easy access
to colourful under water world. The magnificent coral viewing,
also notorious for shark, rays and wide variety of beautiful
fish life. Diving courses are also available.
TIRTA GANGGA
Just north of Karangasem , on the slopes leading up to Mount
Agung, is Tirta Gangga, a veritable water playground designed
by 6 princes in the Royal Family of Karangasem as a resting
place. The exotic pools and water fountains sustained some
damage during the eruptions of Mt Agung, but the water gardens
remain as serene and temping as ever, to the weary traveler.
Karangasem, Bali's easternmost
regency, is also its most beautiful. It has a wide variety
of resorts, some of them little-known. Padangbai, where the
ferries depart to Lombok; Candidasa on the southern coast;
Tulamben and Amed, the divers' hide-outs on the north coast;
Tirtagangga, near the cultural heart of the eastern coastal
plain, and the more remote areas of Sidemen and Putung. Karangasem
is a great area to base yourself for several days of exploration.
Prices in US dollars. AC = Air conditioning. Telephone code
is 0363.
Bali - Candidasa
Candidasa is a good place to
escape the bustle of Kuta. Accommodations are good and relatively
cheap, as is the food. There are no beach vendors and aggressive
hawkers are rare. Although the town has tripled in size in
recent years, the surrounding area is still serene and very
quiet. Everything is oriented along the main street that parallels
the beach.
Bali Tourist Information
Perama Information Center in
the west part of town is helpful. No Problem International
Air Ticketing can book tickets on Garuda and many international
airlines. They also arrange bus travel to Java and eastern
Indonesia.
To Karangasem
Public bemos run between Batubulan
station and Candidasa until dark for Rp3,500 (this is the
local price: you may end up paying more). Public bemos operate
between Candidasa and either Klungkung or Amlapura charging
around Rp3,000.
If you come from Kuta and want
to avoid crossing Denpasar, take the direct shuttle bus which
departs from Kuta at 9.30 am. Buy tickets at CV Ganda Sari
Transport, JI. Legian, Phone 754383. From Ubud (next to Nomad
Restaurant), take a similar shuttle at 8.15 am or 4 pm, Rp6,000.
These buses also run the return journey.
The best way to explore the
area's back roads is by car, motorbike or bicycle, all of
which can be rented at several outlets in Candidasa at rates
similar to those in Ubud (see Ubud practicalities). Motorbikes
with drivers park on the main road at the Tenganan road junction
and at the Culik junction to offer lifts to Tenganan and Amed,
respectively. The usual fare is Rp1000 one way: bargain.
Eating in Candidasa
check Out our list of Bali Restaurants
Candidasa sprouts new restaurants almost daily, so there are
always new places to try out. Menus are similar, so we recommend
only those that stand out in some way. The typical menu includes
salads, Indonesian and Chinese dishes, seafood, sandwiches,
and deserts. Some add steak, curry, pasta and cakes. Prices
are good, averaging $4-$5/person with drinks. Seafood can
be a lot more expensive. Most places close by 10 pm.
Arie Bar and Restaurant Down-to-earth,
family-run establishment with a good selection of Balinese,
Chinese and Western dishes. Good quality and prices that are
hard to beat.
Di Mahkota, This international
restaurant has a very Dutch flavor to it, serving smoked fish
(salmon, herring and even eel), meatballs, croquettes, imported
cold cuts and cheeses as well as more common international
and Indonesian fare. Has the luxury of AC and open-air settings.
Kedai . Right on the main road
as you enter Candi Dasa from the south, this very stylish
Asian fusion restaurant is the perfect spot for lunch and
dinner. A mouth-watering menu features crab cakes, various
curries and fresh seafood.
Kubu Bali, Serves a bit of everything
but excels in seafood: grilled, steamed or fried. Their open
kitchen is fun to watch. Finish up with a peach melba, chilled
fruit or a cognac.
Lotus Sea View (free transportation
in surrounding area). Next to Toke cafe. Larger and more formal.
Enjoy the sunsets and great seafood. Its location near the
water gives it a Venetian flavor.
Pandan Restaurant By the beach.
Well known for its Balinese buffet of babi guling (roast pork),
chicken, fish, vegetable, noodles and salads. Experience this
feast or sample one of the many other delicious local or Chinese
dishes.
Puri Bagus Beach Hotel A good restaurant on the second story
overlooking the sea. Great seafood.
Rama Bungalows and Restaurant
Has added Swiss dishes such as Roschti, Kartoffel and Puffer
Mitgemuse to an already good menu.
TJ's Cafe. Has the best grilled
fish, stuffed baked potatoes and salads around. Elegant open
pavilions overlook a carp pond.
Toke Cafe Near the bend in the
road. Opens to the beach on one side and to the main road
on the other. Offers the best combination of Balinese ambience
and Western intimacy. Great welcoming drink and good pasta
for a couple of dollars.
Warung Ibu Rusmini has the best
nasi campur (mixed vegetables, tempe and chicken with rice)
in town for under $1, plus other simple local dishes.
Shopping in Candidasa
Candidasa is not particularly
a place for shopping, but a limited selection of textile bags,
sarongs, locally designed clothing, and jewelry, as well as
other gear is available. The following places are of some
interest:
Ratu Oka is a lontar palm-leaf
artist who works in his small shop next to the SO Artha Home
stay. Traditional lontar books are available here for $20.
Bali Ceramics, east of town,
has a variety of quality glazed stoneware. Simple bowls, vases,
cups, and plates in interesting designs. They also sell shuttle
bus tickets to Ubud and Kuta.
It's also worth checking out
some of the shops in Terganan. They offer typical Tenganan
ikat textiles and other traditional textiles. Some are genuine
antiques. Most shops also have pandanus baskets in different
designs and stories from the Ramayana carved into lontar leaves.
Candidasa Night Life
Candidasa has entered a new
age with the recent advent of discos and nightclubs which
seem rather out of place in this once quiet seaside village.
Raja Restaurant shows movies nightly. Go-go's is a favorite
with the younger crowd and has great dance music. But to dance
all night long, the only place to go is Beer Garden Disco.
There are also traditional music
performances and dance at several places. Candidasa Beach
Bungalows II holds barong and keris dances in the restaurant
upon request for groups, $15 including dinner. Pandan Harum
stages legong, bans, and barong dances with gamelan orchestra
on Tuesday and Friday at 9 pm. Closed during low season. $2.75/person.
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Candidasa
Activities
Diving
Karangasem has several dive spots not to be missed, namely
Gili Tepekong, Tulamben (with its ship wreck swarming with
marine life), Amed (great 40 meter drop-oft), and the reefs
of Tianyar. Scuba diving equipment is available for rent at
several diving centers along the main street of Candidasa.
Their prices change according to the location. For those near
Candidasa and Padangbai, expect to pay $55 for one dive and
$65 for two. Contact Calypso Bali Dive, Stingray, or Baruna
through its Denpasar office
Snorkeling
Snorkeling can be arranged almost anywhere. Prices for 1.5
hours of snorkeling (including the roundtrip) at the islands
just off Candidasa are around $3/person in a party of up to
3 people. If you are going out alone, expect to pay $4. This
includes the price of the fins and mask equipment. Watch out!
The waves can be rough near the islands. One can also go to
the Pasir Putih area east of town and land on the beautiful
beach for a swim.
Sailing prices are approximately $6 for 2 hours or $8 if you
want to fish.
Cycling
Many places rent bikes. Kubu Bali has five and ten-speed mountain
bikes. The Water Garden has mountain bikes and maps at similar
rates. Count on paying Rp20,000 per day.
Hiking
A fine three-hour, 6 km, walk from Candidasa to Tenganan starts
just east of Kubu Bali or at Sri Jati Restaurant. Follow the
ridge-top trail and drop left into Tenganan just before the
fourth major hill. Magnificent views, but start early to avoid
the midday heat.
A shorter hike starts at the
tip of the headland east of town: walk the hill due northeast
down to a long, deserted black sand beach. Other hikes can
be organized from Tenganan to Putung or to Bedabudug (Bandem).
Other info
Candidasa is a small town with few services apart
from the hotels and restaurants.
Books Shop near The Water Garden
has a good selection.
Doctors. There are two doctors
in town. Hours are limited. Inquire about the cost before
accepting treatment. Look for the sign opposite Pondok Bambu
Seaside Cottages and Restaurant and opposite the Bayu Peneda
Beach Inn. Ask at the big hotels for more information.
Money Changers. Scattered along
the main road are numerous money changers.
Necessities. Asri Shop, mid-town,
is the official post office and the closest thing to a convenience
store in town, selling medicine, foodstuffs, cassettes, and
simple clothing, as well as stamps. Photography. A basic selection
of film, 10% above Kuta prices, is available at several places.
One-hour film processing is also available.
Telephone Service. The Kubu
Bali Restaurant has a wartel for telephone service.
Bali - Padangbai
Upon arrival at the small beach
resort of Padangbai, don't be put off by the busy pier. Padangbai
hides great coves and dive spots behind its hills. Quiet Biastugel
lies behind a small hill to the west, while Padang Kurungan,
or Blue Lagoon, lies to the north, nearer to the accommodations.
Rows of colorful outriggers are lined up on the sandy beach,
east of the pier. There is a tourist information office at
the harbor. Made's Cafe provides diving services at $50 a
dive. Only simple accommodations and restaurants are available
here.
to Padang Bai
Padangbai is a main departure
point for Lombok and other islands. A ferry leaves the harbor
for Lombok every two hours from 9 am. For information on ferries
to Lombok, call the harbor office, Phone 41840.
There are private boats to Nusa
Penida (landing in Buyuk) for Rp4,500 per person. These only
go to Nusa Penida and leave early in the morning. Depending
on the boat size, they can carry either 20 or 40 people for
the one-half hour journey. Find the boats on the beach just
east of the big ferry terminal. They leave between 7 am2 pm;
same schedule coming home from Nusa Penida. A charter will
cost about $7 if you bargain well. To sail directly to Nusa
Lembongan you should leave from Sanur.
There are direct buses from
Padangbai to Jakarta for Rp400,000. Public bemos to Padangbai
from Denpasar (via Batubulan and Klungkung) charge Rp5,000
to those who bargain well.
Eating Out in Padang
Bai
A few small restaurants are
scattered around Padangbai. Topi Inn's attractive sandy floor
restaurant serves a wide range of food and is famous for its
fried fish prepared by the owner herself. Pantai Ayu Restaurant,
right on the beach, is always full. Chinese and seafood dishes.
The pleasant English-speaking manager lbu Komang presents
you with small gifts a krupuk udang to welcome you and a cute
out rigger souvenir to take home. She has also a few rooms
for rent: $2.50-$10.
Bali - Tirtagangga
Tirtagangga is still a small
hamlet, quiet by day and even quieter by night-nice place
for a few days of hiking and reading with periodic dips in
the spring-fed pools. The few places to stay are all quite
basic. Reach Tirtagangga from Candidasa by bemo via Amlapura
for Rp2,000.
Eating in Tirtagangga
Kusuma Jaya and Warung Rijasa
serve Indonesian dishes such as mie goreng (fried noodles)
or nasi goreng (fried rice) for $1. Warung Tirtawati has a
selection of delicious Indonesian food; their mie goreng is
a delight, and a bargain at under $1.50. Both Good Karma and
Tirta Ayu Homestay serve a wider selection of Indonesian and
Chinese meals.
Several warung and restaurants are in a little shopping arcade
in front of the water palace. Gangga Café serves pizza,
Indian, vegetarian, and homemade yogurt. Puri Sawah's menu
includes all kinds of baguette sandwiches, many salads, baked
potatoes with various fillings, and baked goods.
Tirtagangga Activities
Swimming
Most people visit Tirtagangga to swim in the pools,
which are quiet and cool. Also look for the fresh spring by
the bridge.
Treks
There are many walks through the rice fields. Ask
around or just keep to the wider, well-worn paths. A wonderful
cascade of rice terraces and steep hills drop down into Culik
just north of Tirtagangga. Trekking guides are available in
Tirtagangga. For $30 they will take you to the top of Mt.
Agung; $15 to Mt. Lempuyang.
Cycling
This is probably the best area in Bali for biking.
There are some steep hills but there are lots of great back
roads. Rent a bike elsewhere and either ride it out or bring
it on the bemo
Bali - Sidemen
One of the most beautiful areas
in all of Bali is the Sidemen valley. Take the road over the
bridge east of the city Semarapura, going north through exquisitely
beautiful scenery of sharp green hills and rice field terraces
interspersed with kubu (thatched huts for keeping tools, animals,
or for taking a shaded rest). Sidemen and Iseh are famous
for their views from the jagged hills, plunging down to steep
rice terraces in the near distance and soaring up again to
Mt. Agung rising above it all. Sidemen is famous for its kain
ndek ikat cloth, as well as gold-threaded songket weaving.
One can go to any of four atelier in the Sidemen area and
watch the workers weaving.
Bemos cost Rp5,000 from Semarapura,
a rather steep price since it's a comparatively seldom-used
route. Home stays and hotels are all owned by members of the
local royalty, the family of Cokorda Dangin. If all rooms
are full, they can refer you to another. Prices can be inclusive
of up to 3 meals a day, cooked at your home stay, since there
are no restaurants catering to non--Balinese tastes in the
area. There are no fans needed in the cool mountain air.
Bali - Amlapura
Amlapura is not a place where
many tourists stay, but you can. Bemos run frequently between
town and the surrounding areas, as it is a business and market
center. Bemos to Ujung leave from the terminal east of town.
The fare to Denpasar is Rp15,500 and to Singaraja Rp15,000.
Eating Out in Amlapura
Restaurant Lenny Associated
with the Pandan Restaurant in Candidasa, has a wide selection
of quality Indonesian and Chinese food.
Warung Manggis Behind the bemo
center. Excellent Indonesian food. Under $2 a meal.
Bali - Amed
Amed is on the easternmost tip
of Bali where some of the island's most idyllic beaches are
located.
How to get to Amed
Bemo prices to Amed from Culik
are Rp10000 or Rp10,500 further out. An ojek ride costs Rp2,000.
Bali - Tulamben
The Village of Tulamben can
seem uninviting: the beach is rough black sand and in the
dry season the countryside is uniformly brown. But Tulamben's
attractions lie beneath the water. The wreck of a World War
11 Liberty class ship, a magnet for divers, lies 30 m from
the beach. Experts say 400 species of reef fishes live on
the wreck, visited by 100 species of open-ocean pelagics.
It's not hard to see why this is probably Indonesia's most
popular dive spot. Reach Tulamben by bemo from Candidasa via
Amblapura for Rp2,000. Taxi is Rp25,000 each way.
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