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SINGARAJA
The original capital of Bali, Singaraja is right on the sea,
and its harbor has been key to local development. Bustling
centers of local commerce, its people are noisy, open, and
friendly, and reflect their local climate.
LOVINA & MENJANGAN
ISLAND
About 10 kilometers west of Singaraja. The black sand beach
is safe and a wonderful place for swimming and snorkeling.
Lovina also offers dolphin viewing. Menjangan Island, part
of the West Bali National Park has the most beautiful coral
reefs in Bali. A long with the bearby Labuan Lalang, this
is a great place for diving and snorkeling
YEH SANEH
A little further east on the coast is Yeh Saneh, an idyllic
spot that few people know about. Only a few maters from the
splash of the surf is a cool freshwater spring around which
has been built a large pool and gardens for bathers and picnickers.
GITGITWATERFALLS
To the south of Singaraja is Gitgit Waterfall, Bali's highest
waterfall. This beautiful wilderness area is a must for nature
lovers who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of
the larger towns. This is a perfect place to take photographs
of Bali's magical scenery
While it is possible to make a day-trip to the north coast,
it's a very long drive and you really need to stay longer
to see the area. Best to base yourself in the Lovina resort
area, with its many hotels and restaurants. Besides Lovina,
both Singaraja and Air Sanih have accommodations. See map
on p. 190-19.1.
Prices in US dollars. AC = Air conditioning. Telephone code
is 0362.
Singaraja
Bali's administrative center
during the Dutch times, Singaraja is now way behind Denpasar
in terms of development. It is, on the other hand, a more
pleasant place to visit, with a flavor somewhat more Islamic
than Hindu. There are neither traffic jams nor pollution and
everything is conveniently located on one main street, JI.
Jen. A. Yani.
to Singaraja
Singaraja can easily be reached
from the east, west and south. From Denpasar, it takes two
to three hours by car via Bedugul. The official bemo fare
is Rp5,000. Another road, still more breathtaking, runs through
Tabanan, Pupuan and Seririt, for a Rp5,800 fare. All bemos
leave from the Ubung terminal in Denpasar.
There are two terminals in Singaraja:
Banyusari and Kampung Tinggi, with bemos running between them
for Rp500. Bemos from Denpasar and Gilimanuk arrive at Banyusari
while those from Amlapura and Kintamani go to the Kampung
Tinggi terminal. The fare from Banyusari to Lovina is Rp700
and from Kampung Tinggi to Gilimanuk and Amlapura is Rp 5,000.
Eating in Singaraja
The Taman Lila complex on J1.
A. Yani has a row of restaurants serving mostly Chinese food.
Best known are the Gandhi restaurant, No. 25H, with an extensive
menu and moderate prices. Try the nasi goreng kepiting (fried
rice crab) or the shrimp sate. Just beside Gandhi is Kartika,
No. 251. Further west are two intimate restaurants frequented
by local lovers: Cafetaria 99 and next door, Arina.
Lovely Singaraja Shopping
One place worth visiting in
Singaraja is the art shop, Tresna on JI. A. Yani 5, which
hasantiques and fabrics. Another place for fabrics is Banyusari
Market or go directly to the Berdikari Hand Woven Cloth Factory
at JI. Dewi Sartika 42, for replicas of antique silk textiles.
Open daily, 7 am-7 pm.
For toiletries and drugstore
items go to the Tirta Dewata mini-market on J1. A. Yani, in
the direction of Lovina. For camera film, go to Warna Fuji
on JI. A. Yani 30 and 40.
Most places here do not accept
credit cards or travelers checks. Banks such as Bank Dagang
Negara (JI. Gajah Mada, Phone 25222), Bank BN1 (JI. Gajah
Mada, Phone 24347) and Bank Central Asia (JI. Hasanuddin,
Phone 23760/6) can change money and arrange transfers. |
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Bali -
Lovina
The area known as Lovina (actually
another name for Kalibukbuk) comprises several villages situated
alongside the coastal road west of Singaraja. From east to
west they are: Tukad Munga, Anturan, Kalibukbuk (Lovina) and
Temukus. All offer accommodations and other tourist services.
It is quiet and rural here. The black sand beach is beautiful
at sunrise. There's no surfing, but plenty of coral areas
for snorkeling. The fishermen can also take you to see dolphins
offshore; arrange with the boatmen a day in advance. If you
have had enough of the sea, the mountainous hinterland is
great for hiking.
to Lovina
Lovina is only 10 minutes from
Singaraja by a good road. Public transport runs until 9 pm.
Bemos to Singaraja (Banyusari terminal) cost Rp2000. You can
also charter a bemo for Rp.25.000
There are direct buses to Java.
Buy your ticket from the Perama office in Anturan: Surabaya
$10; Yogyakarta $20; Jakarta $25.
Shuttle buses run several times
daily to Bali's main resorts: Ubud $7; Candidasa $10; Kuta
$7. Buy your ticket from Perama in Anturan or from Ganda Sari,
Bina Ria or Arya's Cafe (Phone 21797) in Lovina. Tours of
the area, as well as snorkeling and sailing trips can be arranged
by your hotel or by these shuttle companies.
For bike, motorbike and car
rentals, go to: Bina Ria Transport, Happy Beach Bungalows
or Bali Taman Beach in Tukad Mungga; Perama Losmen or Mandhara
Beach Cottages in Anturan; or Pringga Guest House and Janur's
Dive Inn 'in Kalibukbuk. The daily rate for a push bike is
$2; motorbike $5-$6; car self-drive $15; car with driver $20-$25.
Eating and Nightlife in Lovina
Nearly all hotels in the area have restaurants. Janur's Dive
Inn has one that is great value for money. Very pleasant,
serving favorites for $1.
The most famous restaurant is Khi Khi in Lovina. If the food
is to your liking, go to their open-air kitchen and take notes
on the recipes. Grilled fish and fried prawns are favorites
here. Bali Bagus has seafood and vegetarian dishes, and is
highly recommended. Another popular restaurant is the Kakatua,
near Lovina beach. Try their fried fish for $2. Or you can
go to Srikandi for fried rice, which you eat sitting on a
mat. For those who want live music, go to Wina or Malibu.
The latter turns into a disco on Fridays. Bali Aga on the
south side of the street, across from Tip Top Shop, has spaghetti,
burgers, and traditional Balinese specialties.
Lovina Watersports
Most hotels can arrange water
sports, not only for the Lovina area, but for Pulau Menjangan
to the west (around $18). The usual rates are as follows:
snorkeling: $3-$4 per person (bargain). Trip to the dolphins:
$5 per person. Fishing trip: $5 per person.
Shadow Puppets as a
Treat
Lovina is not known as a center
of Balinese culture. However the area is famed for its puppet
shows. Hotels with regular performances are: Puri Bedahulu,
Happy Beach Bungalows and Mandhara Beach Cottages.
Bali - Air Sanih
Driving east from Singaraja
along the coast, or north and then east from Kintamani, you
will pass through the beach resort of Air Sanih (Yeh Sanih),
which is noted for its freshwater springs. It's a nice stop-off
before you continue your journey to Karangasem.
You can also enjoy a beautiful
sunrise on Air Sanih beach or, by leaving early enough for
Karangasem, you may see the first lights hit the peak of Mount
Agung near Tulamben-a breathtaking experience. Several bungalows
have been built in Air Sanih and the surrounding area, many
by the pools which overlook the seashore.
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